As the summer dwindles, I get cravings for summer flavors -- knowing that soon we'll be reduced to stews, steaks, and so on, and the vegetables in particular will go to hell in a handcart. Here's last night's act of desperation, Jody Adams' grilled fish with a basil-potato puree' and grilled heirloom tomatoes. No rouget to be had, nor any striped bass, either, so we went with farmed rainbow trout instead. The brown things are nicoise olives scattered around.
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